Nestled in the waters of Lake Maggiore, Isola Madre is an emerald oasis that seems lifted from a fairytale. It is the largest and perhaps most enchanting of the Borromean Islands. Imagine a quiet island of lush gardens and historic charm: Victorian-style flowerbeds, peacocks prowling freely, and a centuries-old Borromeo villa. Early travelers like Gustave Flaubert even called it “the most voluptuous place in the world”. In short, Isola Madre casts a spell on all who come – couples seeking tranquility, families eager for adventure, and history lovers alike will find something magical. As you step off the ferry onto the shaded dock and cross into the garden paths, you’ll instantly feel the island’s serene, storybook atmosphere.
How to Get There
Isola Madre is only accessible by boat. For most visitors the journey begins in Stresa. From the Stresa lakeside (Piazzale Marconi or the Lido near the cable car), private motorboats and public ferries hop to the Borromean Islands several times each day. The first departures are around 9:00–9:30 am, and the last boats return by about 5:30–6:00 pm. We recommend buying the all-day “hop-on-hop-off” ferry pass (~€15 per adult) – it covers unlimited rides between all Borromean islands for the day. (Just remember there’s a small cash landing tax of €0.50 each time you disembark.) Boats run roughly every 30 minutes in summer, so you rarely wait long. If you time it right, you can catch a boat in the morning, spend 2–3 hours on Isola Madre, and return whenever you wish before the last ferry.
If you prefer public transit, Stresa’s train station (on the Milan–Domodossola line) is about 1 hour from Milan. From the Stresa station it’s a pleasant ~1 km walk downhill to the ferry pier (or a short taxi ride). Driving is also common: take the A8/A26 highway toward Gravellona Toce and exit at Carpugnino (for Stresa). There is parking near the piers (e.g. Piazzale Funivia and Stresa Lido), but spaces fill up on sunny weekends. Once you’re at Stresa, simply follow the signs to the lakefront and line up for the Borromean-Islands tour boats.
Tip: Boats also leave from nearby Baveno (10 min from Isola Madre) and Verbania-Pallanza (a 5–10 min crossing directly across the water). Both use the same island-pass system. But for a first visit it’s easiest to concentrate on Stresa departures.
Main Attractions
Botanical Gardens
The heart of Isola Madre is its exotic botanical garden, a dazzling 19th-century English-style landscape that feels like a miniature Eden. Because the lake holds in warmth, palms, camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons, and even tropical bamboo thrive here. Look for the famous 200-year-old Himalayan cypress – said to be the largest in Europe – shading a terrace. Gravel paths wind among pergolas of wisteria, beds of hydrangeas and lilies, and bubbling fountains. Every vista is framed by flowering trees, and higher terraces afford panoramic views of the lake and Alps beyond.
One of the island’s most charming sights is its free-roaming white peacocks, the unofficial mascots of Madre. You’ll often hear their calls and catch a flash of iridescent tail as they wander by flowerbeds. Kids (and photographers) delight in watching a peacock fan out its feathers against a backdrop of blooms. Other wildlife includes golden pheasants and fluffy white chickens scurrying in the undergrowth. In spring, when camellias and azaleas blaze in color, the official guides say the island truly becomes “a tranquil oasis of nature” filled with “rare and exotic species”. (Even if you visit in summer or early fall, the gardens remain lush and beautiful.) Take your time strolling – the well-kept paths climb some gentle slopes, so wear good shoes. Benches are scattered along the lakefront for resting; there are water fountains available to refill your bottle. Remember to respect this private botanical museum: don’t pick flowers or feed the birds, and please carry out any trash you bring in.
Palazzo Borromeo (The Villa)
After wandering the gardens, you’ll enter the Palazzo Borromeo, the island’s 16th-century manor house and museum. The palace is far less ostentatious outside than its sister on Isola Bella – it’s painted a pale yellow and tucked quietly among the trees. But inside it reveals an intimate, old-world charm. The Borromeo family’s summer furnishings fill the rooms: antique sofas, gilt chairs, oil paintings, porcelain vases and lacquered cabinets all evoke aristocratic life of past centuries. A highlight is the Marionette Theatre, one of the world’s finest private collections of 17th–19th-century puppets and stage sets. Imagine tiny puppet plays once staged here for the Borromeo children – the detailed backdrops and mechanical “cloud” effects are mesmerizing. You’ll also pass through the Dolls’ Room (with antique dolls), the richly decorated Sala delle Stagioni (Hall of Seasons), and the elegant Salotto Veneziano (“Venetian Salon”). This salon is especially striking, with painted plant-column pillars and a Murano-glass chandelier suspended from a trompe-l’œil ceiling of vines and flowers.
Note that the palace tour covers multiple floors, so be prepared to climb stairs (there is no elevator). The circulation area at the top even offers a pretty view over the gardens. Thankfully, on a warm day the interior rooms feel cool – a welcome break. Altogether, plan to spend about 1.5 to 2 hours exploring the palace and gardens. At the end you’ll exit via the little gift shop, where you can pick up books, postcards or local treats as souvenirs.
Visitor Tips
- Season & Timing: Spring (April–May) is truly the best time to visit. The gardens erupt in color with camelias, azaleas and wisteria, the weather is mild, and crowds are smaller. Early autumn (September) is also lovely – warm, quieter and with the first hints of fall foliage. In midsummer (July–Aug) the weather is sunny but busy; expect lines at the boat and more visitors on the paths. Try to arrive on one of the early boats (around 9:30) to beat the crowds. Avoid major holiday weekends (Easter, May Day, Ferragosto) if you can.
- Opening Hours: Isola Madre is open mid-March through early November. Typical daily hours are 10:00–17:00 for entry (the gardens close around 18:00). Last tickets are sold about an hour before closing. Give yourself at least 2–3 hours on the island – more if you want a leisurely lunch.
- Tickets & Boat Passes: It’s smart to buy your Borromeo Islands tickets online in advance (tereborromeo.it) to skip the ticket line. An adult ticket for Isola Madre is about €20, and includes both garden and villa. Kids under 6 go free. If you plan to visit multiple islands, there are combo tickets available (e.g. Bella+Madre). Ferry tickets (the ~€15 day-pass) can be purchased on-site in Stresa or on board – advance reservation isn’t required for the public hop-on service.
- What to Bring: Wear comfy walking shoes – most paths are gravel or flagstone and some involve stairs. Dress in layers and carry sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen) and plenty of water. There are drinking fountains in the garden, so bringing a reusable bottle is ideal. In case of light rain, a compact umbrella or raincoat is useful (large umbrellas can’t be carried inside the palace). A camera is a must – the island is extremely photogenic. (It’s okay to take photos everywhere, just no flash or tripods indoors.)
- Families & Accessibility: Isola Madre is very kid-friendly. Children will love spotting peacocks and pheasants, and there’s room to run safely along the paths. Remember that strollers can be taken around the gardens but must be left at the palace entrance (you can use a baby carrier or sling to see the indoor rooms). Restrooms (with a changing table) are available next to the café. Little ones under 6 travel and enter free, which helps keep costs down for families. Keep an eye on youngsters near water edges and remind them not to touch exhibits or plants. For visitors with limited mobility: the island’s terraced layout and historic villa make it challenging. There are slopes and uneven gravel, and the palace has steps at the entrance and inside. Wheelchairs can reach parts of the garden but not the upper terraces or most palace rooms. If needed, a companion can stay with a child or guest on the ground level while others tour. (The café La Serra is outdoors and wheelchair-accessible, so it can be a resting spot as well.)
- Etiquette & Other Tips: Isola Madre is essentially a private museum. Please do not pick flowers or feed the animals. Picnicking on the lawns is not allowed, but you may enjoy snacks on one of the many benches. Trash bins are provided – take your litter with you so the island stays clean. Lastly, check the local weather the day of your visit. The palace provides shelter if there’s a short shower, but the gardens are best enjoyed in good weather.
Nearby Amenities
- On Isola Madre: There are limited dining options on the island itself. The highlight is La Piratera, the only full-service restaurant, housed in an old water tower (“Torrione della Noria”) on the grounds. It serves traditional Italian and local dishes (lake fish is its specialty) from about 11:30 am to 3:00 pm. Dining on its lakeside terrace (surrounded by flowers) is a unique experience – just remember to book ahead if you want lunch there. If you’re looking for a lighter bite or a drink, the La Serra caffè is perfect. Open from mid-morning, it offers coffee, gelato, panini and refreshments in a cozy wood-and-floral setting. You can sip an espresso or aperitif outdoors under umbrellas while gazing at the palms and lake reflections. (Sanitary facilities are nearby the café.)
- Nearby (Stresa & Islands): Many visitors combine Isola Madre with lunch elsewhere. Just a 5-minute boat ride away is Isola dei Pescatori (the Fishermen’s Island), a charming village ringed by trattorie serving fresh lake fish and rustic Italian fare. This is a great spot to relax after your garden stroll. Otherwise, back on the mainland Stresa and neighboring towns have abundant choices. The lakeside piazzale near Stresa’s cable car (Piazzale Funivia) and the old town are lined with bars and restaurants. In short, “in Stresa, Baveno and Verbania there are many lakeside cafes and restaurants” to satisfy any appetite. Whether you crave gelato on the shore, pizza in a piazza, or a lakeside dinner at sunset, you’ll find it easily.
Enjoy your visit to Isola Madre – with its quiet beauty and timeless gardens, it’s sure to be a highlight of your Lake Maggiore trip!
Why Choose Our Guesthouse Near Isola Madre?
If you’re planning to visit Isola Madre and the other Borromean Islands, Villa Hartmann Feel at Home offers the perfect retreat just a short drive from Stresa, where ferries depart regularly to Isola Madre, Isola Bella, and Isola dei Pescatori.
Nestled in the hills between Lake Maggiore and Lake Orta, our historic villa combines the elegance of a 1930s residence with the warmth of a family-run guesthouse. Fully renovated in 2022, the property offers modern comforts while preserving its original charm, creating a peaceful and welcoming environment surrounded by greenery.
You’ll find a variety of room types to suit your needs:
- Spacious family suites with separate sleeping areas
- Comfortable triple and quadruple rooms for groups or families
- Intimate double rooms with French or twin beds
- A shared dormitory option for solo travelers or those seeking a budget-friendly stay
Each room is inspired by a chakra color, creating a soothing atmosphere, and features panoramic windows, quality bedding, and modern bathrooms — some even with double washbasins for added convenience.
The villa also offers elegant shared spaces such as a yoga and meditation room, a breakfast veranda flooded with natural light, and a lounge with a central fireplace, perfect for relaxing after a day exploring the islands.
Our location is not only ideal for visiting Isola Madre, but also for discovering Stresa, Mount Mottarone, and the surrounding lakes and nature trails. Whether you’re hiking, playing golf, or simply enjoying the view, you’ll feel immersed in the beauty of the region.
Book your stay today and experience the pleasure of sleeping in a historic villa surrounded by nature — a peaceful guesthouse where every detail is designed to make you feel truly at home.