Borromean Islands (Lake Maggiore, Italy)
Nestled in the waters of Lake Maggiore, the Borromean Islands are a trio of fairy-tale isles long favored by nobility and artists alike. Owned by the aristocratic Borromeo family since the 14th century, these islands were transformed from rocky islets into sumptuous retreats with grand palaces and sculpted gardens. Famous visitors – from writer Ernest Hemingway to British royals – have lauded their beauty. The islands’ art, architecture and nature blend Baroque grandeur with exotic botanicals: as Montesquieu wrote, the setting is “the most beautiful place in the world”.
Isola Bella – Baroque Palace & Terraced Gardens
Isola Bella (“Beautiful Island”) is the showpiece of the Borromean archipelago. Rising like a ship from the lake, it is crowned by Palazzo Borromeo, a 17th–19th century Baroque residence filled with richly-decorated salons (including a Napoleonic reception room and an armory). Surrounding the palace, a famed Italianate garden cascades down ten terraces of fountains, statues and exotic plants. Below the palace lies a whimsical grotto adorned with mosaics of shells and pebbles. On the island’s shore, narrow village lanes of fishermen’s houses now host craft boutiques, cafes and restaurants. Highlights:
- Palazzo Borromeo: Ornate 17th-century halls and period furnishings.
- Baroque Gardens: Ten-level terraced gardens with fountains and colorful blooms (open spring–autumn).
- Grotto: A pebbled, shell-lined cavern beneath the palace.
- Village atmosphere: Charming streets with lakeside cafes and shops; look for the Via del Fornello eateries.
Visitors stroll through the palace’s piano nobile to admire frescoes and marble, then wander the lush gardens. A guided tour or audio guide is available. (Note: Isola Bella is open mid-March to early November; check seasonal hours.) To avoid crowds, go early or late in the day. From a ferry, the island’s profile of palace and gardens unfolding from the water is unforgettable.
Isola Madre – English-Style Garden Eden
Isola Madre (“Mother Island”) is a tranquil botanical garden paradise on the archipelago’s largest isle. Spanning eight hectares, its English-style garden was planted from the 18th–19th centuries and hosts rare exotic plants and free-roaming birds. Gustave Flaubert called it “the most voluptuous place I’ve seen”. Majestic avenues of wisteria, camellia groves, palm and banana trees, roses, hibiscus and bamboo flourish in gentle lakeside light. White peacocks, golden pheasants and parrots wander the lawns, creating a living aviary. At the island’s crest stands Palazzo Borromeo – a 16th-century family villa furnished with brocade-draped beds, tapestries and portraits. From its large windows one enjoys sweeping lake views. Highlights:
- Botanical Gardens: A world-class collection of camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolias, and more, blooming March–September.
- Exotic Birds: White peacocks and pheasants roam freely.
- Palazzo Borromeo (Isola Madre): A family palace-turned-museum with period rooms and a miniature puppet theatre collection.
- Family Chapel and Greenhouses: 19th-century chapel and greenhouse conservatories in the gardens.
Stroll the peaceful garden paths (e.g. the Viale Africa with temperate palms) and discover hidden groves and fountains. Don’t miss the Scala dei Morti (“Staircase of the Dead”), a gothic cloister tower draped in wisteria. A café and elegant restaurant at the water’s edge allow a lakeside break. The island’s mild microclimate means flowers at any season (camellias in March, roses by May, hibiscus in summer). Nearly all visitors pause here for photos of the palace reflected in the bay.
Isola dei Pescatori – Picturesque Fishing Village
Isola dei Pescatori (aka Isola Superiore) is the only island permanently inhabited year-round. This tiny fishing village is beloved for its intimate charm. A single narrow main street winds through cobbled alleys lined by multistory homes with wide wooden balconies – traditionally used for drying nets and fish. The houses overlook a small piazza and the lakeside promenade, dotted with colorful boats. Highlights:
- Village Lane: Quaint pedestrian streets filled with boutiques and terraced houses.
- Church of San Vittore: A 11th-century church (rebuilt in Gothic style) with medieval frescoes and carved wooden apostles (fishing patrons).
- Lakeside Dining: Several famed trattorias and cafes serve freshly-caught fish specialties (try perch or risotto al pesce persico). Mussolini himself once made a historic lunchtime stop here in 1935 to taste the perch.
- Ferragosto Procession: On Aug 15, watch boats carrying a statue of the Virgin Mary circumnavigate the island in a traditional festival.
- Craft Market: In summer a small market of local artisans sets up in the alleys.
Because the island is flat and compact, it’s perfect for relaxed strolling. Fishermen still land their catch on the tiny dock each morning. Sit at a waterfront table and enjoy the unobstructed lake view over Stresa. The overall atmosphere – especially at dusk when island lights twinkle on the water – is magical.
Practical Information
- Getting There: The islands are best reached by boat from Stresa or Baveno on Lake Maggiore. Public ferries (e.g. Navigazione Laghi/Stresa Ferries) depart roughly every 20–30 minutes and connect Stresa, the Borromean islands, Pallanza and others. Tickets can be bought at harbor offices in Stresa, Baveno, Verbania (Intra) and Pallanza. An all-day hop-on-hop-off pass allows flexible island-hopping. Alternatively, private launch services (39-passenger boats) are available for faster crossings.. By land, Stresa and nearby Arona are on the Milan–Domodossola train line; major roads (Autostrada A8/A26) reach Stresa by car (paid parking at Stresa harbor).
- Tickets & Hours: Isola Bella and Isola Madre are run by the Borromeo estate and open mid-March through early November. (They are closed in winter.) Standard admission must be purchased to enter the palaces and gardens. As of 2023, adult tickets are about €20 for Isola Bella and €17 for Isola Madre (a combined ticket is ~€30). Children (6–15) pay roughly half-price. (Members of the British Royal Horticultural Society get free entry, as these are RHS partner gardens.) Opening hours are typically 10:00–17:30 in summer, with last entries earlier in shoulder season. The islands can be very busy in July–August, so consider booking online in advance or visiting in spring/early fall.
- Accessibility: The islands’ steep, historic terrain makes full wheelchair access difficult. Inside the palaces, elevators reach the first-floor exhibitions, but garden paths include many steps. Strollers and large bags are not allowed in the palaces. Pets (other than guide or assistance dogs) are prohibited in the villas and gardens. Visitors with disabilities (≥30% certified) receive free admission. Flat and paved, Isola dei Pescatori is easier to navigate on foot, though paths are narrow.
- When to Visit: Peak season (mid-June to August) offers warm weather and full blooms, but crowds are highest then. In shoulder seasons (April–May, September–October), gardens are still gorgeous (spring bulbs and autumn foliage) and visitor numbers drop. During winter the palaces close. If you visit on Ferragosto (Aug 15), be aware of the religious procession around Pescatori – ferries may be busier and timetables adjusted.
Visitor Tips
- Plan for a full day: With three islands, aim for at least 4–6 hours. Many travelers recommend taking the first ferry out of Stresa to maximize time. It’s possible for brisk visitors to see all three in one day by hopping islands early or late.
- Clothing: Dress in layers for changing weather. Wear comfortable walking shoes – the gardens are best explored on foot and include gravel paths and stairs. Bring sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen) in summer.
- Photos: Photography is allowed in most areas (no flash or tripods in some palace rooms). For dramatic views, go down to the lakefront on Isola Bella’s northern tip or walk to Pescatori’s viewpoint.
- Food & Drink: Cafés and picnic areas are available (particularly on Isola Madre and Bella). On Pescatori, reserve lunch at one of the famed fish restaurants. It’s wise to carry some cash, though credit cards are accepted widely.
- Language & Currency: Italian is spoken here, but English is common in tourism areas. The currency is the Euro (ATM’s in Stresa).
- Local Events: Check the Stresa summer festival calendar; Isola Bella often hosts concerts. Note that San Giovanni (the small Borromeo-owned isle) and the ruined Castelli di Cannero are private and cannot be visited.
Tips by Traveler Type
- Families: Children enjoy the boat ride and open gardens. The islands are safe and traffic-free, so little ones can roam the lawned terraces and piazzas. Isola Bella’s theatrical grotto fascinates kids, and Pescatori’s casual eateries (pizza, gelato) are kid-friendly. Strollers are not allowed in palaces, but you can leave them at lockers.
- Couples: The Borromean Islands are extremely romantic. Wander hand-in-hand through Isola Madre’s exotic arboretum or sip cocktails at sunset on Bella’s terrace. Couples often linger for a lakeside dinner on Bella or Pescatori, accompanied by gentle waves and evening lights.
- Solo Travelers: The islands’ relaxed pace suits independent visitors. A solo traveler can hop between islands on the public ferry, spend as much time as desired in the gardens, and enjoy quiet moments by the water. (Many day-trippers report that even seeing one island can feel like a full experience.)
Each Borromean Island offers a unique experience: Bella’s grandeur, Madre’s botanical splendor, Pescatori’s village charm. Together, they form a compact journey through Italian art, architecture, and nature.
🌿 Hartmann Feel at Home – Where Your Journey to the Borromean Islands Begins and Ends in Peace
A visit to the Borromean Islands is like stepping into another world—one of palaces and peacocks, ancient stones and blooming terraces, fishermen’s boats and baroque gardens. But to truly embrace the rhythm of the islands, your stay should reflect that same balance of beauty and calm.
Welcome to Hartmann Feel at Home, your retreat in the hills just above Stresa—a place where you can pause, breathe, and feel genuinely cared for.
🧘♀️ Not a Hotel. Not a B&B. A Sanctuary.
Tucked away in the green landscape of Gignese, Hartmann isn’t about formality or routine. It’s about space. Stillness. And small joys that make each day more meaningful.
Here’s what makes it special:
- 🛁 Garden hot tub – soak under the trees, with nothing but birdsong around you
- 🔥 Cozy round fireplace lounge – where conversations flow and time slows down
- 🧘 Yoga & meditation room, open day and night – your quiet corner whenever you need it
- 🥐 Thoughtfully prepared breakfast – no fixed hours, just fresh, seasonal, and made with love
- 📚 Wellness-inspired reading spaces – to unwind with a book and a view
- 🌳 A barefoot-friendly garden – walk, sit, stretch, just be
It’s not about luxury. It’s about authenticity. And how good it feels to be welcomed like family.
🛏️ Every Room, a Reflection of Peace
Each room at Hartmann is named after a chakra and designed to restore balance and comfort. Thoughtfully decorated, full of light and warmth:
- 👨👩👧 Swadhisthana – Family suite with garden access and plenty of space to breathe
- ♿ Manipura – Accessible double room, easy and calm, with a French bed
- 🛏️ Anahata – Triple room with a charming loft bed and a soft, open feel
- 💕 Vishuddha – An intimate, romantic room for two with gentle colors
- 👪 Ajna – Spacious suite with a separate living area, ideal for families or couples
- 🌄 Sahasrara – Tower room with wraparound views of the lake and mountains—truly unforgettable
🗺️ The Perfect Base for Your Island Adventure
Staying at Hartmann means you’re just minutes from:
- 🚤 The Stresa boat docks, gateway to the Borromean Islands
- 🌴 The romantic gardens of Villa Pallavicino
- 🏞️ The panoramic heights of Mount Mottarone
- ⛳ The historic Alpino Golf Club, just a short walk away
Spend your days exploring the lake. Then return to your hillside haven, where the silence feels like a soft exhale.
💫 A Slower Way to Travel Starts Here
When you stay at Hartmann Feel at Home, you’re not just visiting Lake Maggiore. You’re giving yourself space to be present, to rest, to reconnect.
👉 Ready to begin? Reserve your stay now at:
www.hartmannfeelathome.com
We’ll be waiting for you in Gignese—between the lake and the sky, with open doors and a quiet smile.
Because Hartmann isn’t just a place to stay.
It’s a place to feel truly at home.